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#53150 door gero
14 maart 2006, 14:13
Vooral de eindconclusie is erg mooi ...
Dus als dit artikel voor jou te lang is
hoef je alleen de laatste 8 regels te lezen :wink:
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The Cuban Ajiaco By: Niurka Núñez
(researcher of the Anthropology Cuban Center

The ajiaco is a Cuban typical food, a nutritious and thick broth. It is prepared
with meats , mainly pork or also beef and several viands such as: cassava,
malanga, yam, pumpkin, bananas, sweet potatoes and corn, it is seasoned with
chilli, tomatoes, spices and lemon.

Similar meals are prepared in the rest of the world those depend on the aported
things of the place: the ¨olla podrida española¨( a wet good with meat of pork
or beaf and different vegetables¨, the¨ Argentinean locro¨ ,¨ the Russian
borsh¨…, and the list might be endless. But, for Cubans the ajiaco is more than
a simple food. Since it was baptized as such by Fernando Ortiz , our¨ third
discover¨, this culinary element became a symbol of the Cubans.

In spite of the Cuban's native population was subdued to an extermination
process that provoked their sudden disappearance as an ethnical group in the
16th century, the aborigines contribution in the alimentary aspect is

In the first time of the conquest and colonization, the Spaniards had to adapt
the native costumes, using the cassava as main element because of its use in the
casabe elaboration (¨the bread replaced¨), and they had to eat the food aported
in the island: other tubercles, corn, some varieties of beans and fruits.

Moreover, they frequently consumed fish, other sea's product and terrestrial
animal's meat like: iguana, hutia, crocodile, different birds. Later on, most of
those aliments were rejected, but others took an important place in the food,
not only for the new population, but for the rest of the people of the world,
among them cassava (mandioc), casabe or corn.

The abundant chilli's used as condiment in the national cooking ; as well as,
the way to broil, ¨the indigenous barbacoa¨, that is considered from the
aborigine influence.

Regarding to Spanish, since the conquest times, they brought the domestic
animals, which did not exist in the island, those were reproduced rapidly. Also,
different cultivations were introduced from many part of the world such as: the
sugar cane, rice, some varieties of vegetables, tubercles, fruits, species,
wheat, coffee, cocoa and potatoes.

Little by little, the conquers model of food was imposed ¨a diet based on rice,
beans, meats, milk and eggs¨; beside, the products, which they used to consume
were imported as: flour, oil, wines. But, the alimentary products found here had
already joined to the rest of the components tubercles and corn were included in
the Spanish cooking in pottages and different dishes.

Chickpeas and beans Spain's traditional food were almost replaced in Cuba with
the course of time for the reddest and black beans, but they were already used
in pottages in the Spanish use . And, not only in Cuba but also in some regions
of today's Latin America.

As for the African component, we should take into account how the slaves
privated of their identity, were obliged to adopt to the culture of the dominant
white race. Even though, Spaniards received the Africans influence due to,
slaves or free negroes were always the cooks.

From Africa, arrived us some products such as: malanga, bananas, yam, quimbombó
and the food prepared with them, which took place in the Cuban cooking. The
abundant consumption of white rice in the Cuban's diet alone or mixed with beans
in pottages ¨ this last one absent in Spain congry (rice and beans cooked
together) the roasted pork on a prick; those seem to be African influence.

Early in the 19th century with the Haitian Revolution an important French and
Haitian immigration arrived to the Cuban territory. It was settled in the east
region mainly and also in other places like Havana, Cardenas and Cienfuegos,
that impelled the coffee cultivation in all the mountainous zones of Cuba. Since
that time, the use of coffee spread, replaced chocolate in the Cuban diet and
became the national drink.

In the half of the 19th century the Chinese braceros importation began, whose
influences in the Cuban cooking is less visible than the African one, although
most of them were employed as cooks, so they left their traces in the
elaboration of some foods.

Also, at the beginning of the 20th century arrived a great importation of
Haitian and Jamaican braceros who settled down in the sugar zone of Camaguey and
the east region. From the Haitian we could know the ¨dompliim¨(flour balls) that
are added to the pottages and other dishes and the use of strow and other
leaves, the elaboration of "calulú"(from the African influence. It is consumed
today in some Guantánamo´s zones in the east part of the country.

Nowadays it is very difficult for us to assert that the "Ajiaco" or any other
traditional Cuban dinner is purely Spaniard, African or native. In the "Ajiaco"
there are mixed different ingredients, although it is mainly a native food.
Nevertheless, the Spaniards aported the meat, and the Africans aported the

As Don Fernando Ortiz said, all aported their cultural essence in a half bread process
cultural mixture which gave a cause for a new entity different from all its originary
ancestors: the Cuban people.

Bron: Radio Bayamo


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